Sevilla, capital city of Andalucia, is just an hour and a half’s drive from Los Castaños so we drove there to celebrate my birthday recently. Ignoring the weather forecast which for some reason we thought didn´t apply to us, we arrived in the pouring rain and without coats or umbrellas.
But, every mistake being an opportunity, we headed for the famous Triana market to see what we could find to keep us dry. Oh my. I wanted to buy the whole place and take it back to my kitchen. Such abundance of extraordinary unknown vegetables and fruits. And chestnuts from our valley!
We also found some ugly ponchos, green for John, purple for me, as is fitting. And umbrellas. In the same shop was a woman making fans. Never seen that before. Fully equipped we set out to see some sights. As it was early we had the dodecagonal Torre del Oro to ourselves, a fascinating Moorish tower especially if you are at all nautically or historically minded. Philip the Cruel kept his money and his mistress there.
Once we got into Sevilla proper, over the other side of the mighty Guadalquivir, the crowds of tour groups were terrifying. The queue around the cathedral looked exhausting so we chose instead a friendly bar with a great vantage point under an awning. It was fortunate as they told us about their flamenco deal that evening. You don´t expect much for 15 euros per person, tapas included but it was perfect. Just a singer, a dancer, a guitarist. Informal and an unchoreographed feel. Small crowded space as it fitting for such intimate music.